Mitchell Reel Forum

I've seen this as well. I always check to see if my post went through. I don't know if its the recent changes to my browser or the server side is throwing the error.

I'm going to guess both these reels were manufactured between 1954-1955. There is a good site with more information on the Mitchell Cap reels which you might like to visit https://mitchellcap.info/.

The box for the second reel looks to be a custom made box and it is really nice.

I too find grease like Penn Reel grease to thick and sticky and thin it down with some synthetic oil like SuperLube. Here lately, I've been using FluidFilm, a lanolin based grease. It is the same grease I use on my car lift slides. It prevents rust and after several years hasn't become sticky and it...

I will agree with Syd, there is a shim (81024) under the rotor head that's easily visible that wears out over time. I doubt it went missing. It can be tested for play by grabbing the rotor and pulling it away from the body and then pushing it towards the body. There should be very little movement, i...

The Mitchell 308 reels came with teflon washers. I believe some individuals tried upgrading to carbonex washers with Cal's drag grease, similar to what you're describing. I have not tried that myself and question how useful that would be with 2# line. :twocents-02cents: You might try searching on eb...

It's a great rod and reel combo that I'm sure your father was proud to own and fish. I have a similar combo Garcia Conolon and Mitchell 408 (non Prince) that went with me fishing at a local pond a while back. I love the feel and battle. I love fly fishing too. If you get the chance, take it with you...

I suspect this reel-rod combination is worth more to you for sentimental reasons than what you're thinking it may be worth. I would place a value somewhere in the 110-210 US dollar range, leaning toward to the lower end of that range.

It would be helpful if you could provide the model list of reels and types (spinning, baitcasters,etc.) for which you have parts.

Is the play in the rotor head up and down or left to right. If up and down, a shim might help. Left to right would indicate excessive wear and would be difficult to correct without finding a replacement frame. PM me and I can give you a name of a person who has parts and experience with the Mitchell...

That is a nice find.
It is an early Mitchell (300) reel before the "300" was added to the engraving.
My best guess is it was made in 1953-54 time frame.

What a beautiful reel! Thank you for sharing the photos.

You can also learn more about the reel here: http://www.mitchellcap.info/

Have a look at this thread: viewtopic.php?p=206&sid=7ef4107bef4ea5d ... 8eed4#p206

Chris or someone else here might be able to help you, if you can post a picture.

Regarding grease, any good light weight grease will work, just apply it lightly to the gear teeth and gear faces.

I use a gun grease because I have it on hand. My father used Vaseline, not my favorite but it works. No need to pack it like some have done to reels I've seen while servicing them.

Soaking in kerosene would work. It's old school and most folks don't like the smell, but I still use kerosene myself to clean grease from parts.

Good luck with the project reel and best wishes for the upcoming New Year.

4189 is not a serial number. I don't know this for sure, however I think it's an ID number for the Aluvac alloy material. Two items are missing from your last photo, the anti reverse dog with spring and the transfer gear. The anti-reverse dog was seen in one of your earlier photos near the bottom of...

A member of another reel site (alantani.com) that goes by foakes, Fred is his name, has the transfer gear and other parts for the Mitchell half bail reel. You can either join the site and contact him through the Mitchell section or send me a private message and I can get you his information.

Wallace, Welcome back to the forum after a long and understandable absence. I hope your medical problems are behind you or at minimal being managed. Your presence has been missed. And, thank you for the kind words. While I continue to research and discuss the history and issues with many of the Mitc...

In reply to: "I have a 'slightly' bent counter weight section on my rarer round AR knob reel, and I would dearly love to straighten it, but I fear disaster." If you have a handle of collector value, I recommend you pass on the challenge. This is extremely tricky, as I myself have not had m...

Contact foakes at https://alantani.com, he may have a plastic gear in stock. He has a large stock of Mitchell parts, used, new and new-old-stock.

6lb mono or 8lb braid.

Thank you for sharing

Any teflon based drag grease will probably work. I hear good reviews on using Cal's purple drag or Shimano's drag grease. I don't have any experience myself, just what I've read at orca, alantani and fishingtalk site/forums.

Here are a couple photos of my Mitchell 314 reel. Notice all three Mitchel reels appear to be roughly the same diameter, have the same number of teeth (48) but each has it's own gearing for line wrap. I believe the 314 is planamatic gearing, but I defer to the experts. While not pictured, the Mitche...

Here are a couple photos of my Mitchell 304 and 304S reels. The photos show a closeup of the main gear and the reel internals. From the photos, 304S main and pinion gears looks a bit beefier. That may be because the 304S has seen much less usage and less grease on the gears. The 304 has been well us...

Maybe the S means different things for different models. This article (https://www.fishingtalks.com/old-mitchell-300-reels-and-their-lettered-sisters-differences-18516.html) agrees with B. R. Frewings booklet. On page 16 of Frewings booklet "S Skirted" is listed in the "Abbreviations ...

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think the "S" after the number is an abbreviation for Skirted. I believe this was mentioned in B. R. Frewing's booklet "Mitchell Birth of a Legend".

You could post the story here: https://alantani.com/index.php/board,110.0.html and foakes will reply within 24 hours with an offer for a replacement spring.

A better photo:

: DSC413.jpg (108 KiB) Viewed 20270 times

In the attached picture, the spring should rest on the anti-reverse dawg just below the circle.

Are you speaking of the paint product (Brownells Aluma-Hyde II Epoxy Based Firearms Finish (Semi-Gloss Black))?

I would first try to get some penetrating oil onto the threads by applying a drop or two into the head of the screw. Let it sit for a day or two giving it time to breakdown any corrosion in the threads. Nextm I would use a punch and place it on the head of the screw and hit it once, twice maybe thre...

Your best bet to help identification is to post a picture. Else, you could try cross checking the pictures here: https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,35 ... #msg415205 or post the questions in that forum.

I've seen good reviews on the Olympic Model 8, but I have none of these personally to confirm the reviews. With prices being so reasonable on Michell's, I personally don't see a reason to buy a clone, unless you're seeking them for you collection. Parts may not be identical and finding clone parts w...

If the serial number (9026701) is correct, then the serial number falls in this range: 1969 – SN 8603501 to 9244733.

Another documented mitchell copy:

Marvel Spinning Reel By Seaway Model MSR.15.H https://reeltalk.orcaonline.org/viewtop ... 131#p85131

At least 5 of them that I can document: Olympic Miramar 32A https://www.ebay.com/itm/333683339031 International 100 Half Bail https://www.mullocksauctions.co.uk/lot-750617-international_100_spinning_reel_mitchell_copy_lhw_half.html?p=73 Japan Raichell https://www.fishingtalks.com/raichell-made-in-ja...

Does anyone on the site recall if they ever once visited the old MRM site (or the ourboard.org pirate site)? If so, one may have the photos they once visited still saved by your browser in a directory you're not aware exists. Using the chromeCacheView utility from NirSoft (https://www.nirsoft.net/ut...

I grew up in Western NY, on Chautauqua lake. A very nice man that I use to fish northern pike with gave me the following recipe for cooking carp. After cleaning and descaling the carp, place it on a nice piece of cedar wood plank. Grille it for 10-12 minutes on each side. When the meat of the fish i...

and response.

Altex, I understand your position and just wanted it to be known, I haven't studied the reels like you and others have. Yourself and others know way more than I. I have a few collector books and as you state they don't all agree on the dates. With the serial number missing digits, your book indicate...

I could not present any debating evidence against Altex, Bailarm and GreatLaker statements. I was only using the forum's "Dating Reels" for my comment. These gentlemen and others like George Saul on the board have studied this topic, so I would trust their judgement over anything I present...

The first 408s were produced and released in 1963 (2,070 were manufactured) and the first 308s (5,472 were manufactured) in 1959.

This is likely a 1949-1952, 3rd version Mitchell. Unfortunately, the serial number wasn't stamped evenly. There might be a hint of a digit before the 2711. Without a good stamp imprint of the other 2 digits it's hard to pinpoint the correct year.

Upload a picture or two of the reel. The good folks on this board will help you.

I was wondering if what you think is a slot for a clip, isn't really just a part of the threads left behind from where someone may have broken the bail by trying to remove a seized nut. Just a thought. Here's the link showing a portion of what Fred has available. I believe someone else was looking f...

I don't recall seeing a snap ring to hold the bail to the arm, only a nut. Perhaps a c-clip would work. If anyone can answer your question, it would be Fred Oakes in the forum at the https://alantani.com. He has the largest collection of donor reels, new and used parts for Mitchell reels that I've e...

Bingo, that's what jumped out at me.

Here's a picture from ebay ... see anything odd.

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