Mitchell Reel Restoration

[alllanbiddle]

Hi All
New Member here
Would anyone have any advice re repairing a 300 reel which I am collecting shortly.
It is mechaniclly ok but has some damage to the spool housing which looks like it has been laying on it and has sufferered sorrosion damage.
I am ok with normal servicing and cleaning of these reels, but wish to get ready for my next project reel.
I am thinking that it will need cleaning right back to core metal, possibly filling and sanding back then priming and painting somehow.
I am assuming that I will neeeed to do paint the whole reel ( when totally striped down)
Would anyone recommend a suitable paint or advise an alternative repair.
At the moment I have decided one option would be to use Rust Oleum Satin Black spray ? any thoughts on this good or bad ?
I would like to get it back to a nice looking and working reel for myself only ie not to re sell on.
As such I need it to be perfect, I have dissmissed the thought of swapping the housing as it will break the integrity of the reel
Sorry for wollowing on this
Regards to all here at the MRM
Allan

[Bailarm]

If you think the spool is rubbing on the inside of the rotor it would be a good idea to try another rotor and if that rubs too, check the rotor for ovality.

If they are dropped they can go out of round. Not too hard to find another rotor, but you will need to re-shim the rotor and pinion gear to suit the new part. Good luck.

[Wallace Carney]

Hello Allan, to the Mitchell Reel Museum / Forum!

Before I can answer your questions I would need to know more about why you are doing the restoration (term used loosely). Are you wanting to learn how to do a full blown restoration or just salvaging one to fish with?

Here's one of my full blown restorations:

1939_1st_v_restored_2.jpg (100.73 KiB) Viewed 11312 times

Like anything else in life, it's easy to do once you know how. If you're just restoring one to fish with, that's easy; just wet-sand everything and paint with a black satin primer. Let us know and I'm sure someone will be happy to help you.

Kind Regards, Wallace

[cshannon772]

The only thing I can say is: WWWWOOOOOOOOOWWWW!!!!
Regards,
Chris

[don309]

Great piece of art Wallace. And I have learned lately Restoration is used loosely. I use to think I was restoring, but now I know I save reels.
I think everyone would agree, that if you posted pictures would be good. I'll show you here one of the saves I made.

alllanbiddle I have saved 3 reels, with a 4th on the way. I'll post them in Mitchell show and tell. If you or anyone want to know my process PM me, and I'll exchange email.

[alllanbiddle]

Reply to Wallace, Bailarm, Don309
Hi Guys
Firstly fantanstic website, and I really appreciate the effort the admin guys and contributers, cotinue to put into this and have done.
My question to the Admin (Wallace) would be I and I think many others would be happy to contribute to the upkeep of the site, and if this was a yearly fee of say $15-$20 this would be reasonable, and I for one would be happy with that, after the short time I have surfed the site and can appreciate the effort needed to maintain it
Note I have seen other sites which must have taken the info and are trying to sell it on.
Apologies this reply seems late, the fact is I tried to upload some pictures and failed, spent to much time fluffing with it also prepared a reply and supposed to have saved as a draft in order to attach the pics, but cant find it on here.
1 week goes by still cant upload so:
Wallace your question caused me to rethink my motives for restoration, and right now they are aligned with firstly servicing a reel to full functionality and looks, such I am not afraid to use it, and it must look really nice, to me.
I am ok with al the servicing and enjoy it.
Thank you all for your time replying, and all the info you supplied.
Currently ,I have only a collection of 12 kind of 300 reels, which are my adiction and the later ones possible generation 4 with full bail, only mitchell engraved and the 4 ribbed spools, and the quateral type anti-reverse.
1 of these has no numbers at all.
My post is centered on finding out the best restore with paint, as I will need it now for 3 reels.
I am an engineer, not a painter, and have no knowledge of what the factory finish is or was on the reels
My thoughts are black satin enamel paint.
I dont want to finish up with cheesy gloss painted reels that all can see is a cheap restore.
Best wishes
Allan

[don309]

Allan, I have saved some reels, I don't get into restoring the lettering. I only make them to be fished for many year down the road. Quite a few I have given to young anglers, with the story of the Mitchell. If you'd like PM me, and we can exchange emails. An get more in-depth as to what you want to do. Manty from the old forum know my story, so I won't bore them. This invitation is extended to anyone.

[Wallace Carney]

Reply to Wallace
My question to the Admin (Wallace) would be I and I think many others would be happy to contribute to the upkeep of the site, and if this was a yearly fee of say $15-$20 this would be reasonable, and I for one would be happy with that, after the short time I have surfed the site and can appreciate the effort needed to maintain it.

Hey Allan, Thanks for your interest and understanding regarding the time and money it takes to properly run a high quality website like ours. I have tried to get users to financially help and normally only a few good souls ended up helping. I'm also concerned about new Mitchell collectors being ran off if this is a.... while typing this, I'm having mixed thoughts. I would like others to help by expressing their opinions of a paid membership site.... Will it work? Will it run off new collectors? Would a Donate Button be better? Is it worth it?

Kind Regards,
Wallace

[don309]

I am on a fixed income, but even I am in for $20.00 a year. And yes it may stop some for joining. Question is are they just looking around, or really into Mitchell reels

[alllanbiddle]

Reply to Wallace
My question to the Admin (Wallace) would be I and I think many others would be happy to contribute to the upkeep of the site, and if this was a yearly fee of say $15-$20 this would be reasonable, and I for one would be happy with that, after the short time I have surfed the site and can appreciate the effort needed to maintain it.

Hey Allan, Thanks for your interest and understanding regarding the time and money it takes to properly run a high quality website like ours. I have tried to get users to financially help and normally only a few good souls ended up helping. I'm also concerned about new Mitchell collectors being ran off if this is a.... while typing this, I'm having mixed thoughts. I would like others to help by expressing their opinions of a paid membership site.... Will it work? Will it run off new collectors? Would a Donate Button be better? Is it worth it?

Kind Regards,
Wallace

Hi Walllace
Apreciate your promp reply
Yes its worth it, No question
Thousands of Mitchell fans out there ( Just like me ) eager to get some information on the reels they love and need to share tech advice etc
by the way I bet Italy win 3-2 so inspite of me not a football fan , I think I guage correctly, sorry to seem rude but for someone like you in this passion it is equal to a Masters Degree of reels , needs to apreciated and admirred

[mjplested]

Hi,

Follow-up question on the reel repaint question.
I have endeavoured to remove the paint on an early-ish body using chemical paint remover and I'm amazed at just how durable the original paint is. Based on this I would assume that the original paint is not acrylic but a stove enamel?

Has anyone experience of bead/vapour blasting of the aluminium painted parts of a reel to bring it back to original cast state, prior to repainting?
I'm assuming that to get that very stunning/original paint finish, a rattle can is not the way

Thanks for any feedback in advance.

Excellent site and maybe a Patreon account that those that wish to can use to keep this resource funded.

Rgds

[Bonaventure]

During the pandemic, I have refurbished and painted 9 Mitchell 300 reels. All were done with Spray Cans. All but the last were primed with grey automotive primer. I am not sure that this is a good primer for aluminum. The last one is primed with an etch primer, which is recommended for aluminum. It is an olive green colour. I recommend this type. Google primer for aluminum to find it.

First I stripped all the parts I could off the reel, one reel at a time, I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner and put them in a small plastic box. You can use varsol or mineral spirits to clean, but need to use brake clean or contact cleaner to remove petroleum traces

I got a friend at work to strip all the paint off in a paint remover tank and treat the aluminum case parts and rotor with a chemical treatment called Chroma Coat, made specifically for aluminum. I then masked off the 3 parts needing paint with masking tape. I taped off the first 7 antireverse handles, then decided to paint the last 2. When you paint this area, spray beside the handle, then move it over the painted area. If you don't do this, there will be a shadow in the finish. If the handle is too close to the part being painted, bend it up to clear. Also, use the good painter's tape, the Green or blue stuff.

Prime first, get a good covering coat. Follow instructions on the can regarding drying time before the topcoat. With the primer dry, spray 2 coats of good quality spray can enamel. Krylon, Rustoleum, Tremclad are all suitable. I painted the first 8 reels black but the last one, with the etch primer I did with a dark blue. This is so I could know which reel had that primer. Let the topcoat dry overnight before removing the masking tape and reassembling the reel.

After the topcoat, you can spray a coat or two of polyurethane clear coating over the topcoat. The painted parts can then be baked, but I didn't take this step as I don't have much experience in this step. Wear a Cartridge Respirator for all spray painting steps

When I was in the Canadian Military, 19 of my 25 years of service was as an Aircraft Refinished, so spray painting fishing reels was in my blood.

I assembled the reels using Superlube synthetic grease as the primary lubricant. I rubbed it over all internal unpainted surfaces with a cotton swab. A small artist paint brush would also do. Put your choice of grease on all moving and meshing surfaces. I do not recommend the old soap based greases, nor lithium grease. I bought a couple of 300s from a guy at work who told me they were done with lithium. The insides were covered in black grease, hard to clean up. I think the lithium reacted with the aluminum alloy. Penn Reel Grease or a grease specifically for reels is fine.

For the bail spring, I used a spray can of Walter Hang on oil. It is designed to cling to surfaces and provide a protective fim. I used it on the bail pivot points as well. Motorcycle chain oil in a spray would also work. So would penetrating oil or Fluid Film. Use what you think will work, but spray oil is what I like, I use the plastic tube to cover the spring area and wipe off any excess.

Hope these few tips help.

Glen in Nova Scotia

[Bonanza]

[don309]

I have found after a few saves. That Max 2K Glamour clear coat is a superior clear coat. Though it is expensive, It hardens the best I have used! I have fished a reel I used it on for 3 years, I have laid it on a wall (many many times, and dropping it a few) with NO chipping.

[alllanbiddle]

During the pandemic, I have refurbished and painted 9 Mitchell 300 reels. All were done with Spray Cans. All but the last were primed with grey automotive primer. I am not sure that this is a good primer for aluminum. The last one is primed with an etch primer, which is recommended for aluminum. It is an olive green colour. I recommend this type. Google primer for aluminum to find it.

First I stripped all the parts I could off the reel, one reel at a time, I cleaned the parts with brake cleaner and put them in a small plastic box. You can use varsol or mineral spirits to clean, but need to use brake clean or contact cleaner to remove petroleum traces

I got a friend at work to strip all the paint off in a paint remover tank and treat the aluminum case parts and rotor with a chemical treatment called Chroma Coat, made specifically for aluminum. I then masked off the 3 parts needing paint with masking tape. I taped off the first 7 antireverse handles, then decided to paint the last 2. When you paint this area, spray beside the handle, then move it over the painted area. If you don't do this, there will be a shadow in the finish. If the handle is too close to the part being painted, bend it up to clear. Also, use the good painter's tape, the Green or blue stuff.

Prime first, get a good covering coat. Follow instructions on the can regarding drying time before the topcoat. With the primer dry, spray 2 coats of good quality spray can enamel. Krylon, Rustoleum, Tremclad are all suitable. I painted the first 8 reels black but the last one, with the etch primer I did with a dark blue. This is so I could know which reel had that primer. Let the topcoat dry overnight before removing the masking tape and reassembling the reel.

After the topcoat, you can spray a coat or two of polyurethane clear coating over the topcoat. The painted parts can then be baked, but I didn't take this step as I don't have much experience in this step. Wear a Cartridge Respirator for all spray painting steps

When I was in the Canadian Military, 19 of my 25 years of service was as an Aircraft Refinished, so spray painting fishing reels was in my blood.

I assembled the reels using Superlube synthetic grease as the primary lubricant. I rubbed it over all internal unpainted surfaces with a cotton swab. A small artist paint brush would also do. Put your choice of grease on all moving and meshing surfaces. I do not recommend the old soap based greases, nor lithium grease. I bought a couple of 300s from a guy at work who told me they were done with lithium. The insides were covered in black grease, hard to clean up. I think the lithium reacted with the aluminum alloy. Penn Reel Grease or a grease specifically for reels is fine.

For the bail spring, I used a spray can of Walter Hang on oil. It is designed to cling to surfaces and provide a protective fim. I used it on the bail pivot points as well. Motorcycle chain oil in a spray would also work. So would penetrating oil or Fluid Film. Use what you think will work, but spray oil is what I like, I use the plastic tube to cover the spring area and wipe off any excess.

Hope these few tips help.

Glen in Nova Scotia

[Bonaventure]

One other point in this, the inside of the rotor head is painted. I would only put one coat of primer and one of topcoat. None of clear coat. Too much coating could compromise clearance of moving parts


The clear coat should also go on before the tape is removed, my post may lead one to surmise that it is done after demasking.

Another trick, for masking, is to lay the tape down and let it run over the edge of the casting. Tear it off close. Press the tape down hard right to the edges, then take a sharp knive and shear off the excess tape by holding the blade flat beside the edge of the part and running the knife edge straight down against the part. This will shear the tape right to the rim of the casting. You can also use the back of the knife to shear off the excess tape. For these reels I used an Xacto knife with a No. 11 Blade to do this step.

Hope this helps.

Glen

[Bonaventure]

One other point that I missed is masking of threaded holes. I use 1/4 inch long pieces of round tooth pick, or the wooden handle of a cotton swab. if it screws right in go for it, just need to start it. Use the taper to get the tooth pick piece into the hole. If the wooden piece is too small, wrap a layer of masking tape around it. if you use a bit larger piece of wood, with no taper, then use a knife to make it tapered and cut it off after you have done this. scissors will cut the wood pieces.Try to make it screw in tight so it won"t fall out These pieces will turn right out after painting. Paint on threaded areas can be a problem.

Glen

[Dfitz56]

New member here. This is a great site. Using the information contained within I was able to date my Mitchells, all 300s. I was blown away by Wallace’s 1939 restoration. I have half a dozen old Mitchells, most could be restored in some fashion. Wallace, I would love to know your detailed process as I’m pretty meticulous about bringing old things back to original where possible (I repair/restore clocks). Also, does anyone know how to date the spools?